It’s hard to generalize about the Loire Valley and its wine – the Loire River flows for about 300 miles from its inland reaches near Sancerre to the Atlantic west of Nantes. And all along that beautiful geography are glorious chateaux, a mass of French history, and vineyards. The vineyards follow along the river and are classified within wine growing regions. Each of these regions are distinct in terroir and viticulture, and each tend to feature a particular grape variety. But you won’t find the variety on the label so I’ll highlight what to look for in each region by the best known places within them.
Lets do our tour starting with the most inland region which is called the Upper Loire. This is home to perhaps the best known of the Loire wines, Sancerre and its neighbor, Pouilly-Fume. These are the star Sauvignon Blanc of France and among my own favorite expressions of that grape. (FYI – don’t confuse Pouilly-Fume with Pouilly Fuisse from Burgundy which is Chardonnay). On the spectrum of Sauvignon Blanc taste these are smack in the middle between the fruit forward wines of California and the grassy, new mown hay style of New Zealand – and I love it. They are crispy but without a bite, pale green with a hint of grapefruit, melon and herb along with mineralty from the limestone based soils.
From Sancerre head west through Orleans and into the region known as Touraine and it’s here we find the next most well known wines of the Loire. Vouvray is all Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc is lovely wine with tastes of green apple and honeydew melon. It can also be a little hard-edged due to its acidity so often you’ll find just a hint of sweetness left to ease the way. It offers great versatility with foods that are cured or salty as well as with Asian dishes the have some heat or spice to them. The other significant wine from Touraine to look for is the red wine, Chinon. Chinon is Cabernet Franc. Unlike in Bordeaux, in Chinon Cabernet Franc is a standalone wine, not just a part of the blend, and it deserves our attention. To me there is usually a dark raspberry flavor along with notes of green bell pepper. It’s softer than Cabernet Sauvignon and mellower too. I like it a lot with roasted chicken or grilled pork chops.
Working our way to the Atlantic we now come to Anjou-Samur. The red of this region is generally Cabernet Franc but the most highly regarded wines are the Chenin Blanc of Savennieres, the sweet desert wines of Bonnezeaux and Quarts-de-Chaume and lovely sparkling wines known as Cremant de Loire. The desert wines are made from Chenin Blanc that has been subject to botrytis. Geek Alert: Botrytis is the fungus known as the “Noble Rot” that pierces the grape skin which leads to water evaporation and the concentration of sugars. Sounds bad but tastes great when the wines are made. Similar wines are the spectacular wines of Sauternes. The Cremant is traditional method sparkling wine but made mostly with Chenin Blanc grapes.
At last we approach the coast and the region named for the largest city there, Nantes. There are several varieties of wine made in the Pays Nantes but the most fun to learn about is Muscadet. Don’t confuse this with the grape Muscat because it’s not! The grape is Melon de Bourgogne and the winemakers have a special approach to making the wine Muscadet. You see, Melon tends to be a lean and acidic wine if it’s just fermented and bottled. So the winemakers take an additional step and age the wine on the lees. Another Geek Alert: Lees are the sediments left over from fermentation, mostly the dead yeast cells. This aging process is call sur lie in the French and it results in creating a fuller bodied and nicely drinking wine. I truly enjoy Muscadet. Its appley tartness along with a little chalkiness makes it great with fresh seafood, especially oysters.
There’s even more to the Loire than we can cover in just one post, including delightful Rose’ and even other wines including some Pinot Noir, but I like to narrow the focus and concentrate on the best of any one given place. I know I’ve thrown a lot at you about Loire Valley wines and it can get a bit confusing. Here’s a quick summary so you can be ready to Sip!
|Upper Loire||Sancerre||Sauvignon Blanc|
|Bonnezeaux||Chenin Blanc (dessert)|
|Quarts-de-Chaume||Chenin Blanc (dessert)|
|Cremant de Loire||Chenin Blanc (sparkling)|
|Pays Nantes||Muscadet||Melon de Borgogne|